Could be something is also wrong and you are not getting power to the Control Pressure Regulator (CPR). You say you tried the plug swap and that didn't help. It only operates during cranking when cold and if it isn't working (spraying fuel), you would get this symptom. If it starts easily when hot but not cold and giving it some Ether (fuel) starts it right up (cold) the first thing that comes to mind is the Cold Start Valve (CSV). My apologies as I'm working on another car with similar symptoms. You've got to do some troubleshooting, which is why we're asking the questions we are. There is no magic reset button or single part anyone here could tell you to replace that will just magically fix this. But honestly, all of what I could speculate they are would be automatically eliminated or fixed by you following that list above. But until you verify ALL of these problems first, DO NOT TOUCH IT!Īdmittedly, your problem could be any one number of things right now. Once this is all done, THEN you can play with the timing, and then next check your active and rest fuel pressures and verify they bleed down.Įventually the Air/Fuel mixture will be a consideration. Verify function & spray patters of all 6 CI injectors and your electronic Cold Start Valve. Verify all vacuum lines are connected and in good shape. Verify all wiring from Ignition Leads to your wiring harness are in good order and correctly connected. Inspect all plugs and correctly gap them. The only sure-fire way that I can guarantee that you're going to get this fixed is by returning the engine to stock specification, and to use NOS equivalent parts.Ĭheck your fuses & grounds all across the car.īOSCH, MSD Blaster 2, or Nology Ignition Coils. So the big question here is: When did this first start happening? Has it ever ran right before this?

Please keep in mind however that even for both of the above symptoms, that assumes that everything else is already in proper running order. If the car does not start when hot, that means you are not retaining the rest pressure of your fuel system properly. If the car does not start when cold, that means you have an issue with the Cold Start Circuit. When cranking, you need to keep the gas pedal pressed at about Â¼ of the way down. This initiates a rich condition which mimics the Choke on a carb (EFI does this solely by increasing injector flow). Once the internal temperatures drop below 54Â☏ or so, the Thermo Time Switch will trip in order to fire the Cold Start Valve. This is mechanical, not computer controlled. If you had that, pretty much most of your questions would already be answered. This will make it clear as to what 'variables' are involved, as well as your temperature variations. You need a Workshop Manual before going any further. Once it cools down, it won't start again without the starting fluid.Ĭan I bypass or jump those devices to take them out of the equation? Keep in mind, the outdoor temperature is in the nineties during testing. I can shut it down and restart it without using starting fluid if the coolant temperature reads 160 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. What are the variables (i.e.: CSV, TTS Coolant Temp Sensor, and others I suppose) that require the coolant temperature/engine temperature to be a certain value before they give the go ahead to start the engine?

Starting fluid injection kit